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Synergistic Research SR Orange Fuse snake oil ?


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This SR orange is said by several here at AS, that it’s making an improvement in SQ. 
 

To me this doesn’t sounds logical at all. Much in audio isn’t. But a fuse ? At $150 ? Crazy 😜 

 

It must be possible to measure and  document what’s making such a device changing the output of a power supply. Either it’s Paul Hynes SR4T or the Farad. 
 

Can someone come up with some evidence or suggestions why a fuse should change sound ?

If it can’t be documented somehow, should we assume audiophile fuses is just snake oil ?


Can the small resistance make a difference between hot and neutral, and cause an issue in the transformers. If so, just add dual fuses ?

 

Does a fuse radiate noise ?

 

https://www.ieee.li/pdf/viewgraphs/overcurrent_protectors.pdf


https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/understanding-the-details-of-fuse-operation-and-implementation/

How Does a Fuse Work?

A fuse is a simple and highly effective way to protect a device from dangerous levels of current:

  1. Current flowing through a conductor’s nonzero resistance leads to power dissipation.
  2. Power is dissipated in the form of heat.
  3. Heat raises the temperature of the conductor.
  4. If the combination of current amplitude and duration is sufficient to raise the temperature above the fuse’s melting point, the fuse becomes an open circuit and current flow ceases.

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, skatbelt said:

Good luck with this thread ... 😉

 

I have never experimented with so-called audiophile fuses myself. Probably because of the same skepticism you seem to have. But I once thought this on the subject: one could - if he or she dares - quite easily test whether a standard fuse has a negative effect on SQ by temporarily bypassing it with a piece of high-quality copper wire of substantial AWG. Based on the principle: the best fuse is no fuse.

I agree, I was to buy a conditioner or regenerator again I would have Schuko sockets! 1 fuse going in & that’s it. 

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Personally, I am skeptical about fuses. A friend bought the Orange for his Yggy and heard no difference. I have the Blue in my Rebuilt DNA 1 only because Steve and Pat had one in when they were testing the unit and highly recommended it and they threw it in. 

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The problem with a fuse is that it relies on a poor quality metal to metal contact, either end, which will develop contact noise - gunk builds up, and a slight rectifying electrical characteristic become part of its behaviour ... it's just another, weakest link in the chain, issue.

 

I started soldering in fuses decades ago - and found that silver paste treatments also do a good job.

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1 hour ago, ASRMichael said:

Fuses are the deep dive of everything matters! 


This must be easy to document. So why isn’t Synergistic Research revealing some documentation ?

 

I bet, there is a reasonable priced alternatives out there. 
It’s just about selecting based on right parameters.

 

Could be like those manufacturers that do this, their equipment won’t change with a SR orange ?

 

 

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You need to turn the question on its head ... what is the engineering issue in the equipment that changing the fuse makes a difference? The fancy fuses you can buy are just rubber band fixes for flaws in the equipment - if the latter were made better, then any old fuse that met the specs for what a fuse should do, would be fine ...

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13 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

So have anyone switch the fuse in a JS-2. 

 

See: 

 

 

Streamer dCS Network Bridge DAC Chord DAVE Amplifier / DRC Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 Speakers Lindemann BL-10 | JL audio E-sub e110 Head-fi and reference Bakoon HPA-21 | Audeze LCD-3 (f) Power and isolation Dedicated power line | Xentek extreme isolation transformer (1KVA, balanced) | Uptone Audio EtherREGEN + Ferrum Hypsos | Sonore OpticalModule + Uptone Audio UltraCap LPS-1.2 | Jensen CI-1RR Cables Jorma Digital XLR (digital), Grimm Audio SQM RCA (analog), Kimber 8TC + WBT (speakers), custom star-quad with Oyaide connectors (AC), Ferrum (DC) and Ghent (ethernet) Software dCS Mosaic | Tidal | Qobuz

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28 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

So have anyone switch the fuse in a JS-2. 
 

@fas42

Lets not hope someone saying that change sound, cause then one could say something about the engineering og the JS-2 😀

I won’t stick my head out for that one....

I’ve had my JS-2 for a couple years, since they were first released.  This past week I ordered a couple of oranges for my amp and preamp and thought I’d check the size;rating fuse in the JS-2 and try one in there too.  Wouldn’t you know it...I popped open the fuse holder and out comes an Audio Magic beeswax fuse.  I was a little disappointed cuz I was hoping for another uptick with the orange and since the Amagic has always been at the top of my list there was really nowhere to go.

I think once I hit a new plateau with my system I look to the small things to fill in any gaps.  It’s hard for me to justify spending for an upgraded power cable and leaving the fuse as is.

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6 hours ago, skatbelt said:

Good luck with this thread ... 😉

 

I have never experimented with so-called audiophile fuses myself. Probably because of the same skepticism you seem to have. But I once thought this on the subject: one could - if he or she dares - quite easily test whether a standard fuse has a negative effect on SQ by temporarily bypassing it with a piece of high-quality copper wire of substantial AWG. Based on the principle: the best fuse is no fuse.

 

Lol. Years ago I mentioned trying this only to get pushback about it being dangerous. Just had to point out I was only suggesting what you are that is just a quick trial.

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5 hours ago, Tokyokyoto said:

I’d check the size;rating fuse in the JS-2 and try one in there too.  Wouldn’t you know it...I popped open the fuse holder and out comes an Audio Magic beeswax fuse.


Well, that fuse isn’t cheap either. But it’s nice to know Uptone is using good quality fuses. 
@Superdad maybe you know what parameters to look for in selection of a fuse ? 

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3 hours ago, plissken said:

 

Lol. Years ago I mentioned trying this only to get pushback about it being dangerous. Just had to point out I was only suggesting what you are that is just a quick trial.

Well is it actually dangerous ?
 

I would say no. It’s not. But possible expensive 😀

 

Your circuit breaker will cover up for the dangerous issues. 

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15 hours ago, Tokyokyoto said:

I’ve had my JS-2 for a couple years, since they were first released.

 

Just FYI:

The JS-2, UpTone Audio’s choke-filtered, dual-output, 5~7.4A linear power supply has been in continuous production since 2014. Think we just past the 1,000 unit mark. Every unit assembled entirely in our offices, and every unit Q.C.ed/burned in (for thermal phase change pad melting and regulator heatsink torquing) by me personally.
 

Quote

This past week I ordered a couple of oranges for my amp and preamp and thought I’d check the size;rating fuse in the JS-2 and try one in there too.  Wouldn’t you know it...I popped open the fuse holder and out comes an Audio Magic beeswax fuse.

 

9 hours ago, R1200CL said:

Well, that fuse isn’t cheap either. But it’s nice to know Uptone is using good quality fuses.


Uh no. We install only LttleFuse or BelFuse glass fuses (slow-blow) in JS-2. Have never installed any fancy fuses. 9_9

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1 hour ago, Superdad said:

 

Just FYI:

The JS-2, UpTone Audio’s choke-filtered, dual-output, 5~7.4A linear power supply has been in continuous production since 2014. Think we just past the 1,000 unit mark. Every unit assembled entirely in our offices, and every unit Q.C.ed/burned in (for thermal phase change pad melting and regulator heatsink torquing) by me personally.
 

 


Uh no. We install only LttleFuse or BelFuse glass fuses (slow-blow) in JS-2. Have never installed any fancy fuses. 9_9

I was just about to comment that I didn’t have any fancy fuses hidden in my JS2!! 
Any thoughts on whether or not replacing with an audiophile level fuse would bring amount any benefits and what size would be required? 

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